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We were amazed to
learn that this magnificent Cathedral was turned into a “Museum of Atheism”
during the Communist years. Paradoxically, what was intended as
socialism's desecration saved much of the architecture and many of the works of
art from destruction at the hands of the Bolsheviks. (Who can doubt that God has a sense of humor?) |
In this, The Cathedral
of Our Lady of Kazan we saw one of many aspects of St. Petersburg where the
process of restoration
has had a dramatic effect. Some of the other churches that are still
officially museums are also restored to one extent or another. One of our guides described Cyril and Methodius, who have been
canonized as saints by the Russian Orthodox Church, as
"humanitarians".
Christianity went
through some hard times during and after the revolution. The main
hall of the largest Lutheran church, for example, was flooded and used
as a swimming pool. Later it became a storage barn for tractors.
It’s now functioning as a church again, although the new interior is
far simpler than the original.
We were fortunate
enough to happen into two of the restored and re-sanctified churches
during services (Our Lady of Kazan and St. Vladimir's) and can
assure you that Stalin's boasts of the certain death of Christianity
in Russia were grossly exaggerated.
Whatever abuse
the churches may have taken, they still smell of centuries of
incense and candle wax, and they are still well attended. Several of
the priests appeared to be in their 30s and some were younger -- a
very encouraging sign. Even though we didn’t understand the language
of the liturgy (The Russian Orthodox church uses a form of Old
Bulgarian in its liturgy.) we understood “Alleluia” and added our
own "amen."
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The interior of Our Lady of Kazan Cathedral
rewarded the nearly two hours we spent there. The cathedral was built in the early 1800s and the design was in
the grand style of St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. We ventured in on a Saturday
and found ourselves in the middle of a service, with a choir emanating
from a hidden loft. The worship style is very different from what
we were used to -- there were no pews and many people wandered away and prayed in front of
the various icons while the service continued. |
Many Russian Orthodox icons are significant works of art in themselves.
Though the Communist government allowed many to be destroyed and
others sold into private collections, some
notable exceptions remain. Here is a golden Madonna and
Child still venerated at Our Lady of Kazan. |
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The
Church of the Resurrection, also called "The Church of the Spilled Blood"
was built in 1883-1907 on the site where Tsar Alexander II was killed
by a bomb thrown by an assassin from a revolutionary group. It was
built in the style of St. Basil's in Moscow. The inside walls are
decorated with 7,000 square meters of mosaics.... just breathtaking.
During the Communist years
it was used to store grain. Because of this they kept the roof in good
repair so much of the interior survived the Communist years virtually
intact. And much of what was damaged is now being repaired based on
old photos and the original plans.
Although the
church is now officially a museum and no services are conducted
there, it is still functioning in its own way. When we visited, we saw
several groups of Russian citizens led by guides who were carefully explaining the biblical scenes in the magnificent mosaics
and the significance of the various icons. Like, teaching Christianity 101! |
St.
Vladimir's church was a short walk from our hotel, near a house where
Dostoevsky once lived. Entering there we found ourselves again in the middle
of a service. At one point, the three priests chanted in harmony. It was
truly heavenly.
This lacquer box, made
by one of the five recognized schools producing this classic form
of Russian art, shows the front of St. Vladimir's. It now sits on
our coffee table at home.
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